Letting go of control and certainty - you would never expect a designer like Phoebe Philo applying that philosophy over the creative and production process of her collections at Céline. She's been exploring a couple of different territories for quite a while; and all have worked on every aspect. Her recent collections have become - being the plain fact that they're just clothes - into something substantial and beyond; they strictly reflect the needs of today's women. She also owns a very political vision when it comes to the way she wants her designs to be perceived by the fashion and outsider audience, and how Céline, as an up-and-coming fashion-powerhouse, has been thoughtfully branded since she took the reigns at the core of the brand. All that savoir-faire evolution has resonated globally to the point of filtering itself into the closets of women who might not be even aware of the "Céline" modus-operandi, a movement that subsequently has caused a significant, positive outcome in the way women dress and how they see clothes today. So as the famous quotation "hard-work-pays-off " goes, the austere and controlled direction from the hands and brain of - a hard-working woman herself - Phoebe Philo, have worked successfully. However, today, we see her propelling an effortless chapter.
Having stablished a well-built foundation for the firm, Philo feels confident enough to articulate a new vocabulary that will enhance within the strong aesthetic, already diffused. That noteworthy aesthetic-vocabulary is defined by the word organic; a noticeable facet, trending between the collections of - few smart designers - other houses and firms, too. If Philo ever had concerns about people's misperceptions on her references, that isn't any longer the case. Those preoccupations were left aside, liberating her women with desirable, easy-to-wear clothes. Here, there was less editing and more focus on experimentation. There was no preoccupation for sleekness nor the way the cuffed-hem on a wide-leg trouser purposely reveals a stitched-seam. It all felt as a natural instinct. It connotes the way women live their lives today; with more freedom and less hesitation.
That self-assurance and introspection is embodied through lightness and movement, achieved via (stretchy-knit) tank-dresses that conclude in a burst of swingy, bouncy, fringe-foliage; the same intriguing flair is present on the v-neck-shirt-dresses, constructed from horizontal bands, each releasing extents of textile excess on both sides. The thick, wrinkled, embossed-textile used for utilitarian coats, embrace that sought-after Céline garb. While the elongated tank-tops, angularly slashed across the upper bust-area, or the skirts with front-back slits, have that provocative and revealing touch that might classify as unfamiliar territory for those Philo-to-death followers. New codes of femininity where captured in the moments when a hip-bone was revealed through circular gaps, or when a collage of flowered textiles was implemented for the architectural-construction of wrap dresses. The vulnerable side of the collection came from the humble feel of details: the simplicity of bags; the gold bells suspended around the waist with a simple cotton strand; or the hand, the snake and lip brooches made from the most unpretentious and delicate material, porcelain.
Women from all over the world will look up to this. Loud and clear, Philo's point is seen across.
By Jhon Jairo Santos