This is Allessandro Dell'Acqua third collection at helm of Rochas. And after his recent Resort 2015 debut, we found the designer on a somehow, firm ground. Such confidence was manifested through Rochas newly intended, branding-approach. Nearly every single blouse, jacket, belt, and even the socks, were emblazoned with capital R's; an strategy that Dell'Acqua knows best, since the designer acknowledges the exceptionally success that his No. 21 brand has been experiencing due to the intelligent branding, design concept, and numbered logo. However, in order for Rochas to evolve into that extend (from runway, to streets, to a broader clientele), there need's to be more than a branding force to propel this interesting, long-term ideas. Which at the end of the day, results will speak best when clothes are physically hanged at retailers.
Dell'Acqua seems very optimistic with this position; you can certainly notice that by the way these clothes were designed. And just like his previous Fall 2014, the style language continuos to be the same; only this time he went more lighter on textile choices. The collection's theme for Spring 2015 proposes, as focal point, modest silhouettes with a daring touch. That clearly reads through the revealing, organza dresses, as equally with the lace-patchwork ones. The idea of luscious basics was achieved successfully when sheer, accordion polo-shirts, and hand-painted organza or guipure button-dows made appearance. Combinations of Chantilly lace, gridded net-mesh, and macramé were mostly seen towards the middle part of the show; thus, presenting some outstanding results with skirts flaring-out two levels of diverse lace that appears from the garment's interior hem. That same effect with lace is seen with the smock strapless short-dress, paired with a long skirt underneath. Elsewhere, the use of hummingbirds as a print or as an embellishment, added to the delicate and nonchalant feel of the clothes.
Everyone knows Dell'Acqua has the eye of a great stylist; something that lead new styling proposals to flourish - a white, drop-shoulder utilitarian-jacket, cinched on the waist with a matching army belt, and paired with a ruffled sheer-skirt, was a total hit. On the efforts to offer what's been a trend this season with the martial-arts belting, the binding across the bust area showed some success at times (it looked interesting on tops and in a black, strapless-gown), and in the other lesser victorious times, it displayed an erring vision. But as previously mentioned, this are just belts, styled over dresses. What seems to maintain a notorious, enthralling effect, is the favored elements Dell'Acqua is injecting: Variations on proportion, layering, and intricate, shimmering details. On that note, the pointy slingbacks, decorated with paillettes and fringe, alongside heel-less sport-socks, presented a great effect - these are the kind of precious elements that will increase the cash flow.
By Jhon Jairo Santos
Images courtesy of Rochas