Prabal Gurung is currently in the works of defining that particular essence that would elevate ICB, his second brand, to a higher niche. With its ninth collection, the contemporary brand has strong roots to depend on. But on the branding-development side, it is like a newborn child - you gotta give it time to nurture. It is a hard work, but Gurung is doing it in the most precisely way. And this season, for Spring 2015, there's visible evidence on evolution - and by mentioning evolution, we meant on every aspect.
As opposite to the brand's previous Fall 2014, this collection feels more experimental and forward thinking. "Caught in Motion" - as mentioned by press releases, was the title Prabal gave this collection. And if the intention was to offer a dynamic-New-York-City-feel, nonetheless, it was achieved successfully. The collection's strong foundation came through an ease, modern feel, mostly delivered by menswear inspired pieces. Having mentioned that, shirting became a strong, focal point throughout. But the twist that made the uplifting turn was definitely the "youthful imperfection" of having silks that feature prints of Peonies melting like draping paint on the front of a mikado blazer-jacket, the hand-drawn windowpane pattern over a pair of lightweight-wool trousers, or the skirts, tops and dresses hand-woven with a metallic film-yarn that was half-way finished on tweed or on knitwear to purposely create an unevenly, cascading fringe, that resulted into the artistic composition of these modern, appealing items. In addition, the freshness delivered by the color palette of crisp white, pale blue, watermelon and juniper green, injected a sporty-breeze feel to these clothes.
These are clothes that girls would want to wear straight from the runway - specially the pieces with a wow-factor, urban touch. Maybe "motion captured in time" represents Gurung's vision of seeing girls wearing his ICB designs when they walk around the streets of New York - and by all means, that's the positive optimism the brand needs.
By Jhon Jairo Santos
Photos J.C. Parra