What an exit for Christophe Lemaire at his last show for the fashion Power house Hermès. After four years of being the creative director for Hermès, he parts with the brand to focus on his own brand. But before his departure, he bestowed upon us his greatest gift, a final collection infused with his DNA; described with three simple words: sophisticated, luxurious, and simple.
The gift was unwrapped under the glass-roofed orangerie of the Jardin du Luxembourg. However, with the runway covered in a bed of yellow sand and a gigantic Hermès orange curtain as a backdrop, you felt as if you were in the middle of the Sahara facing a royal orange tent. Those majestic tents you see in movies, filled with luxurious goods many of us hear about, and few actually see.
Lemaire’s gift to us was different; he wanted us all to enjoy the dazzling beauty behind those curtains. And as soon as that first look walked through, I was hooked. Eyes glazed on the beautifully crafted garments. He opened up with a crème tunic-coat hybrid that exuded elegant simplicity at its finest. A collection filled with clean neutral shades of cream and white and different exotic skins were warmed with shades of marigold, deep navy , and crimson. Splashes of graphic tribal print were visible throughout the garments, paired on top of similar print, or a neutral colored set. Baggy culottes and leather shorts were topped with silk shirts, while androgynous suits were paired with Hermès slip-on-sneakers. Sash details were elegantly thrown over the shoulder and added a hint of tribal to some coats, dresses, and jackets; many of which were made of python, lambskin, and crocodile. Airy pleated skirts topped with wool blouses, scarf- draped smocks, and knee length coats reasserted that simplicity is the ultimate elegance.
With such a poetic exit, the world now awaits the takeover of Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski,. What will the alum of Céline and The Row bring to the 131 year old French Fashion house? We shall see in March!
By Christopher Garces.