Versace Uomo S/S 2012
Watching the Versace menswear show s/s 2012, it’s like opening the “Vanitas” book from Gianni Versace ‘s cultured life, always full of baroque prints, bright bold colors & excitement-extravaganza, and as the book shows all the artistic baroque prints, that recently other designers might have coincidentally “borrowed” from the Versace history; it feels actually like a Déjà vu, something was telling us that Gianni’s aesthetic was coming back, and for some reason, that extravagant aesthetic that turned into a lifestyle, seems to be a huge starting statement for the next year. This time Donatella hit the nail with this collection, she finally set the puzzle of Gianni’s legacy but it was also expected and exciting to see how she managed and delivered such a great collection for Versace Uomo s/s 2012.
The show open with a grey 2 button-double breasted suit, the third look was paired with a button shirt that has baroque-cerulean blue prints and black & white lines, then suddenly models we’re sporting the futuristic sunglasses with baroque frame, that back in the days Gianni Versace was very famous for their cutting edge design. It took us lees than seconds to conclude that Donatella does not need to reinvent Versace every season, she still has a lot of old-fashion forward material, that she can reuse and retouch as many times as she wants. Gianni already reinvented the label with many ideas and concepts when he was alive, so she just needs to follow the same statement on the road, as he did. This collection has an explosion of bright bold primary hues; (cobalt blue, cerulean blue, canary yellow, red, fuchsia, black, beige and emerald green), which make a perfect fusion with the textures of leathers and different luscious fabrics, but the key here, is the different proportions of the pieces, like; high waisted pants, wide leg flares & small waist. For shirts, blazers & cardigans; wider torso & small waist, and furthermore we can mention the gaucho/cropped-boxy leather shorts with pleats, or the mid waist trousers that have buckles at the sides-from the waist down. We also find interesting the blazers that have buckles instead of buttons, the “Guayabera” cerulean blue shirt and the studded leather biker jacket; (previous pieces from Gianni Versace 80′s collections).
Reminiscent details like; the wider printed ties, deep v-neck lines, rolled up sleeves and long silhouettes of the blazers, transported us back to those days when Gianni introduce us to those sartorial rules, which became a huge famous statement between the young and the “it crowd “, however there we’re more flashbacks, like the gladiator sandals with the studded Medusa -Versace logo in gold; wich last time we’re seen on Gianni’s feet while walking the streets of Miami, other signature statements from the collection, are the towel baroque printed robes and the printed bathing suits, that represent the luxury mesnwear lifestyle of Versace legacy.
Gianni Versace not only broke the rules, he introduce us to many things that no matter how old they are, they will always be timeless statements in the world of fashion, we hope that Donatella continuous this road with the label, at the end she is the only one who knew his brother avant-glamour taste and therefore, it will always be named as exclusive as Versace .
ByJhon Jairo Santos
FASHION EDITOR Miami Division
Jsantos@Metrovelvet.com
