New York fashion week began with a fresh start this season; an extra day on the calendar, solely dedicated to menswear collections. Past February, Agentry PR started with the brilliant "extra-day" idea, and now, on the second round, things are looking good for the group of designers and brands showcasing at Industria Superstudios. One of those endeavor talents is Antonio Azzuolo, presenting his A.A. women's and men's line at the platform, and who is aware that it is hard to compete through the tight schedule of 9 consecutive days of fashion week, opting also for this day as a right decision in order to have buyers, editors and press to attend his show. And quite frankly, if he keeps showing the same day on upcoming seasons, he could become, by all means, the must-see menswear show on the first day - this is simply because, what this author saw from other designers throughout the entire day on September 3, wasn't groundbreaking at all. No offense and no competition; either way, let's give credit where credit is due.
A.A's line-up presented more than just the traditional wall-street suit, that even men are getting tired of. At first notice, Azzuolo's Spring 2015 line-up is a continuation from last collection. But in the place of his somber-poetic, and demure layers of fall 2014, there is a deep exploration into elements that allow a converge point between the streets and the sartorial-austere. That's Azzuolo's precise vision: To combine the dynamic feel of the city, with its elegant, business and professional garb. And which in here, that was noticeable in the way the pieces were integrated throughout. This collection showcases the frenetic-rush that is meant to contrast not only with New York, but with the traveling and free spirit of all generations - or shall we describe it as the friendly-wardrobe that every fashion editor needs in order to survive the hectic city-to-city rhythm of fashion weeks? (Not a bad idea after all.)
Comfort is Azzuolo's master key on all the aforementioned - it should be highly mentioned. His trousers, typically pleated at the front, wide and long or sometimes cropped like gaucho pants, have a relaxed silhouette with a timeless, romantic feel. A pair of navy pinstripe pants, with what seems like a detachable culotte on their back, was a genius experiment. Hence in there other tailoring tricks: A blazer-jacket in a vertical half-left/half-right mix-match with two different windowpane textiles (alongside a pair of shorts - found on another look - that seem to be part of the full look), or, as evidently in the crisp construction of the brand's button-shirts. A constant element of tradition - and which has been a predominant aspect on all A.A. collections - is imbued through a martial-arts attire. Long belts used as uniformity, intercalated amid the interior/exterior of coats and blazers, alongside crossed-front poplin shirts and vests, conjugates Judo dressing as a sophisticated, sartorial manner.
Menswear has been a staple-philosophy for Azzuolo since he launched the A.A. brand. Therefore, the echoes of duality are as well present throughout the women's collection. Sharp tailoring is seen on the signature, double-breasted blazers and on a coat designed with a woven-jacquard, while a slouch-fit is denoted by a skirt with architectural-fold on the back, same goes for the intricate jacquard-sweatshirt that was paired with it. Overall, there is a compendious, optimistic message coming from the clothes. "Need some A.A.?" - Is the only question left, and the one that reads either on the back or front of the hats that accompanied some of the looks. And here's my answer to that particular question: Oh yes, I'm sure all people do!
By Jhon Jairo Santos
Photography by J.C. Parra