Yigal Azrouël continuous his rigorous edgier path for menswear fall/winter 2012, this time a more classical statement has been delivered to the audience; not as sharp or timeless, but more playful and sophisticated. Recently we’ve seen the oddest combinations between colors, that before were fer from being noticed with the word style, apparently now they have become must have bold statements in a menswear closet, that’s exactly what Yigal gave us for this collection. Fitted trousers in colors like; bordeaux, forest green, and deep blue seemed like the perfect option for a casual run-around the city, but later you can add the pea-coat with kilted sleeves and voilà, you’re ready to go out-and-about. It is true this collection features Yigal’s philosophy of dressy concepts, but still maintaining the boundaries of comfort.

Following, we cannot get over the must have outerwear items included in this collection. Starting with the biker-burgundy jacket with contrasting sleeves in black-the sleeves come kilted below the shoulder area. A military green parka, the leather camel bomber jacket with fur neckline and the motocross jacket; added an effortless vibe to the regal feeling of the looks. Blazers also come with interesting construction detailing, one of them from the waist down has 2 different blocks of textile in dusty grey colors ( look #18) – or in look 21, the impeccable execution of a lapel-less felted wool blazer that comes with contrasting sleeves in black. It sort of plays with Yigal’s sense of controlled elegance while playing with hard and soft textures. The graphic side was represented by; button shirts, patterned sweaters, and the boldness of a cobalt blue long sleeve.

A difference from men’s 2012 summer collection,Yigal seems to be focus on giving men something multifunctional they could translate to any ocassion without loosing their cutting edge-modern side. In this case, the pieces of the collection can be swap for each look without missing the 4 different hues of those fantastic trousers.

Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA

Since debuting his first Ready-to-Wear Collection for Fall 2006, New York based designer Jason Wu has become recognized for his unique and distinctive aesthetic, merging American sportswear with old world sophistication. Born in Taiwan and raised in Vancouver and the U.S., Wu realized his love for fashion at a young age, and began sketching clothes at the age of nine. Today Target Corporation is partnering with celebrated womenswear and accessories designer Jason Wu to introduce an affordable, limited-edition collection of women’s apparel, handbags and scarves.
“By working with Target I was able to create an accessible collection that reflects my sophisticated design aesthetic” said Jason Wu. “As with my main collection, special attention has been considered into every detail and I can’t wait to see girls wearing and enjoying the collection.”

For his collection for Target, Wu took inspiration from the idea of an American girl in Paris, while staying true to his signature juxtaposition of modern sensibility and timeless style. Ranging in price from $19.99 to $59.99 for apparel and $19.99 to $49.99 for handbags and scarves, Jason Wu for Target will be available Feb. 5 through March 6, 2012 or until supplies last at most Target stores and on Target.com.

There are 53 pieces in the Jason Wu for Target collection including versatile apparel and accessories that easily transition from day to evening such as A-line silhouette dresses, tie-waist shifts and high-waisted skirts accented with Wu’s signature detailing. The collection’s Parisian inspiration is found in Wu’s exclusive muse for Target, Milu, a mischievous, illustrated black cat that will be found on a t-shirt, tote bag and silk scarf, as well as in the collection’s marketing campaign. With Spring around the corner, I think it’s the perfect time to get ready and do some shopping.

Mr.G / Luis Soto
Co – Fashion Editor

Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver have always known how to deconstruct, play and understand the most timeless pieces of menswear, by highlighting & conducting their creations to another level, far from what the concept of those pieces was in the past. That’s their constant preposition for Lanvin, but for this Homme autumn winter 2012 collection, both wanted to create something sophisticated but at the same time pushing the boundaries to the extreme. Even though their suits and coats are ageless, the target this upcoming season seems to be straightly directed to the young crowd, maybe a fresh air blew over the old statements, letting Alber and Lucas build a young figure that still plays with a classic modern spin. The collection this time focuses on bringing remarkable timeless pieces and refurbish them from the past to the future, but with a direction that lets the new Lanvin figure to play it his own way. Mix it with the urgency of everyday, and as result you get; high top boxing boots in exquisite skins juxtaposed with the oddly dusty colors and neutral scheme, and last, with the strictly exuberant silhouettes, that far from last fall 2011 inspired by “David Bowie”, this ones are likely more from the trunk of treasures.

The indulging sound of a pianist playing live at the show, continued by the classic sound eclectically mixed with the techno beat of an urban current culture-two sounds that haven’t been fused, but here at the show, they did not clashed, they were a fluid congruent rhythm that went in compass with all the looks coming down the runway; amplifying that the new voice of Lanvin’s character is a fashion rule breaker. With prominent oversize shoulders almost cocoon shaped, and cinched smaller waist; he is the result of thoughtful tailoring process and transformed decadent elegance, wearing old looking suits and coats, capturing a feeling of not being dandy but adopting a cool sense of mix-matching classic with the sport side of hard edge as his personal aesthetic. To complement this intriguing yet fantastic collection, the looks were paired with different accessories, like: luxurious suitcases in leather, which are not the “conventional” ones, if you think they would fit documents and papers, you’re wrong, these are only for the modern guy who uses Ipads. Caps with fur, iridescent sunglasses, chains, rings and other jewelry pieces were the last touch of distinctive dynamism as menswear fashion moves forward to a new decade.

Proportions & volume play opposites here, while coats with blown up shoulders are wider on the torso, the waist got smaller; followed by other coats with more loose and rounded form. Other jackets, cropped blazers and coats, have structure shoulders, so sharp to the point of look strict and architecturally symmetric; a precise accent that contours the strong outline frame of lapels and necklines from each garment. But the new generation wants also a playful twist added to their clothes, that’s why Outerwear is another big game for Alber and Lucas; down parkas bonded into hybrid coats seemed like layering capes on the runway, but actually are reversible coats into one piece. There’s more, another favorite coat, is lined with Mongolian fur in the inside-those pieces project what the now days effortless men, wants and dreams to wear; however, still managing to give us hints from sartorial tradition.

The duo is assuring that menswear evolution shall continue without leaving its routes; although, fashion history can prove it, Alber and Lucas did it as well; for them and to the public. No matter how many times they revamp menswear, their collections continue to be everlasting as their inspiration.

Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA

Reading “tribal signs” isn’t an easy job, it seems great idea to leave the reading part to the experts in ancestry. But in the world of fashion, this signs seem like the easiest language to unveil meanings when it comes to trends. Past September 2011, designers not only took inspiration from Africa, but also found something that could connect & relate with their ethnic concept for spring summer 2012. It took us more than one collection to choose wisely between which tribe we would like to be part of. Tough call, there are many options, starting Alexander wang shirt-dresses with geometrical prints that are actually the seating chart of an stadium; those prints later became an emblematic American Indian tribe of strong girls with edge that sneak into his “living on the edge & speed” collection. During the same week, Jack Mccollough & Lazaro Hernandez from Proenza Schouler dazzled us into an abstract journey full of modern tribalism-Geometric lines, raffia, plastic, eel skin, anaconda leather, all these juxtaposed materials created a statement of synthesized luxury that sort played a huge game in the color-blocked graphics and zebra prints that have swapped neutral hues. But in the London call; we found David Koma who’s sci-fi tribal spectrum delivered a well response from the public. Materials like: sheer, iridescent plastics & plexi-glass brought to 3D the tribal prints that were previously laser bonded in leather and white ultralight fabric all over the bodice & sleeves of dresses.

Following our tribal path, we found Olivier Rousteing for Balmain; who delivered a collection inspired by Spanish & Mexican “Torero” culture. Sharp silhouettes, short dresses, cropped jackets, Torero jackets with fringe, high waist trousers and long skirts, all of them have mosaic embroideries in gold studs, that almost looked as if tribal signs invade the pieces in such luxurious way. But the tribal eclecticism does not ends there; Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta also had an attraction for tribal prints, or as Consuelo Castiglioni from Marni, who’s timeless modern women had a funky twisted moment in time with raffia and mosaics in wooden & crystal beats.

Fashion markets & targets work in such interesting ways; maybe all the bold color-block from past seasons brought this essence of modern luxury of tribal, but this time was divided in many statements that included: history, athleticism, nature, art & future. Maybe the Maya calendar for 2012 has something bigger for the world of fashion, and instead of an end, these signs can mean only one thing. Success.

Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA

The new campaign images for I.N.C International Concepts spring summer 2012 men’s collection for Macy’s, have been released to the public; and not as conventional as everybody would think they are. This time the market have chosen the perfect face that fits precise with the label’s concept, which certainly is not a model, we are talking about Max Irons, the British actor was chosen to be the face representing this season fantastic campaign. Not to mention a great way to start 2012 with menswear collections, but also still perceiving and capturing the organic-natural result of effortless garb translated into casual elegance, and that’s Max’s personal aesthetic, something that fits comfortable as possible, stills tailored, modern, and current with the rhythm of menswear trends. Further from being the new face for the label, Max approachable style captured the eyes of Macy’s marketing group, who assuredly felt that it is not easy to find often this special bond; between the philosophy of a brand and particular personal style.

The famous actor who is in a great place on his acting career, own the male role as “Jared” on the movie “The Host” to be on theaters for 2013, the film is stated to be great success. Luckily our Editor in Chief, Juan Carlos Parra; had the opportunity to seat with Max and get his opinion on I.N.C new collection. Based on the label’s compelling style direction & inspiration such as “Miane Men” and “Prep Academy”, I.N.C its offering a variety of options with a broke forward glimpse that features a modern polish men. But let’s swap opinions, and highlight Max words about the collection itself, which is a relevant point for the men who will be buying the pieces in the upcoming moths; this is what he told us: ” It feels like an authentic creative partnership, let’s be honest, there has been times in our life’s that we found us wearing something that its not representing ourselves, that’s why I like the clothes from I.N.C, they’re the kind ones I wear, they make me feel confident and comfortable.” Sincere words that work in hand with the reasonable mind of I.N.C customers.

In terms of the aspects from clothes, here is what he also mentioned: “Fairly classic, which is what I like to wear, and its somehow updated with a modern twist which feels good,” positive words that back up the vision and voice from I.N.C design vice president, Ron Van Doren, who early during this month in a press release mention; “Our clientele wants polished clothes with a fashion-froward sensibility and that’s what we are offering with this collection.”

Mixing Max Irons effortless-edgier side with I.N.C collection, and you get these incredible black and white images photographed by Walter Chin, and styled by Bill Mullen. In the images we see a relax side of his persona, channeling his best poses & wearing coats, sharp executed suits, and V-neckline sweaters. However, these campaign also includes an exclusive short film directed by Zack Resnicoff; the video features the actor himself, talking about the fundamental base of his personal style and self-expression. According to max feelings, here his persuasion words about him being the face for the label adds: “For me, its at least a complete different experience, the common denominator in my career has been act in front of a film camera, because when you’re acting, you’re using your brain analyzing your character intentions. Here this time, it was just Max himself in front of photo camera being comfortable on his own actions.”

As for our thoughts; we think it is a great step for the menswear collections from I.N.C, we already perceived the success with previous women collection in collaboration with Anna Dello Russo, who’s campaign and sales were a total accomplished achievement-during the mid period time of last year. Evidently, this new men’s line for summer, and Max as image of it, will bring a lot of clients that identify themselves with the same style. Maybe Max favorite pair of skinny black jeans from the collection, will be the first piece to fly out from those racks.

Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA

An American design icon Tony Duquette, was a native of Los Angeles, California and an internationally acclaimed artist and designer, whose personal motto was “more is more,” died in 1999. But his over-the-top naturalistic style endures in the new limited-edition Tony Duquette for Coach Collection.

Duquette’s extraordinary house in Beverly Hills, “DAWNRIDGE”, continues as the headquarters for the design organization and will serve unchanged as an inspiration for the creative works to follow. Hutton Wilkinson continues to present collections of fine jewelry and home furnishings inspired by designs which he and Tony Duquette created together over their thirty years of artistic collaboration.

“Working with Coach has been a joy from day one. The organization is amazing and the designers are enthusiastic, imaginative and open to all kinds of design adventures,” said Wilkinson.

The 20-piece collection is priced from $48 to $498 and includes a multicolored Duchess bib necklace modeled after a piece he designed for the Duchess of Windsor, jeweled clutch bags, enamel cuffs, cabochon rings and ladybug stick pins, all inspired by Mr. Duquette’s designs, or perhaps I should say beautiful, unique pieces of art. To assemble this collection, the Coach Design team toured Duquette’s Los Angeles home, pored over his books and old photographs, and reviewed hundreds of items from his personal archives.

Each hand-finished piece incorporates and embodies the whimsical, outlandish designs of the late Duquette’s with the quality you expect from a long-standing upscale American company like Coach. The jewelry pieces come in beautiful shapes of starts, flowers, hearts, spikes and the sun in wonderful bold sizes. The materials used vary considerably from combinations of Swarovski elements, cut glass, enamel, genuine lapis and malachite. The limited edition “The Jewels of Tony Duquette” collection is now available on Coach.com and will be in flagship stores February 1st.

“Tony always said that ‘beauty, not luxury, is what I value.’ He would have been thrilled to see these original designs created in his aesthetic at affordable prices,” Wilkinson said.

Mr.G / Luis Soto
Co – Fashion Editor

Ricardo Tisci is taking a Minotaur and the iconic american flag as starting point references for Givenchy Homme fall winter 2012, but his endeavor power to project something new to the game seems to have retake past statements from his previous collections. Maybe the message from his womenswear pre-fall collection; making dresses out of printed textiles from antecedent experiments during the last seven years, is a conscious look into revamping what’s already compromise to his own signature. Certainly a great synonym of what fashion is, in this case bringing back the most memorable details that have build his success at Givenchy.

Between the though personalities of men portrayed throughout the collection, we found; pleated gaucho shorts that look like skirts, monochromatic combinations like red-on-red & black on blacks, studded T-shirts with stars, sharp tailoring, crystal studded brogue-boots and off course tights and kilts – extreme signature references that fill in with power the masculine side of the label. Something that Ricardo named as “American Dream”, could be a genius exploration that somehow contemplates the association with aspects from previous collections. Elements like enamel white and black stars represent the glory from both sides of a story, Tisci’s childhood dream with U.S, and his undeniably success at Givenchy, all of those were the references behind the sparkling Swarovski that adorned the neck of white crisp collar shirts, and Tees. In addition, jackets are must haves, they either come in strong hues of black, embellished with crystals & stars, with bonded leather stripes framing the closure zippers, in dark brown hues and in bomber jackets with red & black studs. Textures and textiles were important as the concept; from strong surfaced leathers to denim cotton and hard felted wool’s. Off course let’s not forget the leather mini circles coveting jackets and sweaters. Jumping to the other side of the Minotaur world, the relation of power was delivered by the nose rings which emblem a type of Moroccan jewelry; following, the defined shaped coats and sick tailoring juxtaposed with the oversize silhouettes of Tee’s, shirts and kilts, all of them straight to the point of aptitude & power. Maybe the stars all over (as in a gang), represent this guys are always winners, never failures.

A tent outside Napoleon’s tomb might have represented the new born of an emperor & warrior for the legacy. Whether this was or not the first time this mastermind dreams came true, we know the Minotaur is not anymore a legend on Tisci’s book; instead, it turned out to be not a half, but a complete real men at Givenchy Homme.

Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA

Kim Jones made his big entrance last year to the world of menswear high fashion. Since his first collection, the attention was draw into the newly designer in charge of such demanding luxury market representing the men behind the new homme collections at Louis Vuitton, and not to be surprised, but once again he delivered a show that no one could disagree on the spectacular strong force that is ridding over everything that faces its way. As new head director of LV menswear line, Kim wanted to give us something timeless but luxurious as the signature background of the label, even the show itself was a magical experience that seemed like a fantastic glance coming out of a giant mirrored sphere. In this case the big reflective globe represented the splendor from Louis Vuitton, and the dapper men coming out of it, looked more as sneak peek of what Kim has for us in the future. Surely this master has a stack of cards up his sleeves.

The collection this time emphasizes living between to different cultures “Paris and Tokyo”, and bonding them together as one, making reference to the connection that Louis Vuitton’s world has had over the past decades between their natal place, Paris, and their collaborations with artists, markets and other influential relations with Tokyo since establishing the label back in 1854. But as this two civilizations fusion into one, Kim involved as well statement details from the most iconic eras of fashion; 70′s & 80′s, which worked in hand to give an everlasting touch of sophistication, but never appointing the rebellious way of expression they represented back in the days. In fact, these magnificent details were blended throughout the collection, like: sharp spikes as piercings on the ears, steel cap toe shoes or belt-buckles with city names in steel; which last time I saw them, were used by Stephen Sprouse on his collections from that time (another artist added to the memorable legacy of the house). But Here under Kim Jones aesthetic, these details were manipulated in such refinement that look far from being stuck in time or style. The traveler men (referring to the philosophy of the house) diffused his cosmopolitan side combining it with the special mixed soundtrack of the show by master Giorgio Moroder, making clear the different eras dispersed among the 42 looks.

As the crowd was inside the 35 acres of the glass greenhouse of Parc André Citroën, delightfully enjoying the wow factor of the show, just as if they were waiting at the most high standard V.I.P airport for all the luxury arrivals to come down from private jets; well, that could be a normal daily basis for the LVMH group, who were all seated front row along head designer of LV women’s line, Marc Jacobs. Good thing though, It seems they already scored their favorite items for travelling this upcoming season, like: the kimono inspired shirts that were paired with precisely executed suits, and are perfect for business travels. Or the LV blankets turned into robe coats, that look cozy and comfortable for the longest airplane travels. There’s more; trench coats with croc leather accents on sleeves and pockets, bomber jackets with fur necklines and full bodice in softened croc leather. Ski Jackets, long coats, hooded fur satin/silk nylon down filled jackets, and beret hats complemented the brilliant collection from this British designer.

Besides featuring a sartorial language with all the structure executed silhouettes or ankle tapered trousers with buttons, Kim also took little details as highlight of the entire collection. Starting with the arrow pins inspired by vintage ones, that were annexed on hats, lapels and scarfs. Another favorite one, is the hand painted feathers with the men’s LV logo. And last but not least, plexi-glass and steel was used for: cap toe, ankle and top part of shoes; a variety of them kick the show, from astrakhan ones, to others in exquisite polished leathers. It is undeniably true that Kim’s latest menswear collection is a synonym of obsession for all the Louis Vuitton fans, aside from all the fantastic transformed maxi and small bags; the collection was a great departure from Paris menswear season, and its thoughtful side of inspiration has put him in a pedestal; same as when the ancestors of his inspiration became leaders in their profession.

Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA

Many won’t know who is Alexandre Mattiussi, nor relate Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs to him, in any form. Mattiiussi was born in 1980, and with only 30 years of age, has already worked with the above mentioned Fashion Houses moving between Paris, Milan and New York.
His extensive knowledge of men’s design -the area in fashion he specializes- and after several formative experiences, last year Alexandre Mattiussi launched his own brand called AMI, which contains his initials and can easily be translated into English as: friends.

The AMI brand is an easy ready-to-wear that with few 3 season’s collections, has already landed an exclusively spot at Barney’s New York. Conscienceless over the past years, the fashion industry has focused to straight forward collections in time instead to appreciate and embrace the present. It is always good to foresight trends and be future-minded, however, with the inclusion of AMI into PFW, a more realistic point of view has set off the critics.
Presenting a timeless collection, AMI focuses on tailoring pieces that -as the brand’s name meaning- would be worn by the designer’s friends. Alexandre Mattiussi, who mentions he doesn’t design for fashion but for reality. Focusing his ideas in real life situations and the present time, he designs effortless and timeless looks that can be easily seen on anyone -and their wardrobes-.

“A modern, well thought-out collection of clothes and accessories to dress men from head to toe, with a healthy dose of French chic and charm, relaxed elegance mixed with a definite sense of easy and authenticity”

Reasonably priced for a prêt-à-porter, AMI’s weekend-tripper styled inspiration upbeats wearables with a hipster feel. AMI approaches fall/winter with a laid back French infused aura in rich fabrics and comfortable wear. The collection is versatile and “real” in it’s outmost, proving that sometimes designing for present times, pays off.

Don’t be surprised if this year while walking through Paris, a store for AMI stands between other high end flagships.

By Alex Márgary
Fashion Editor