While the absence of bright bold colors was a huge step for designers at Pitti Uomo in Milan, Donatella preferred to keep making her own way through it. The Versace invitation with flora-flage (as they name the print) suggested an overview related to the diversity of men find in this collection; no wonder why the legacy of the house has been recognized for its variety through past the years. The collection itself, showed once again what the Gianni Versace during his days would have call “Masculine Culture”, however; this collection represents the side of Donatella’s words and vision about Versace men. Starting with businessmen in suits, and continuing with the urban rock edge with denim-gold chained studded vests, jackets & jeans, as signature piece from the house. But where to start? every piece is vibrant and full of energy, that we found ourselves wanting all.
An impressive couture craftsmanship level was applied on some of the jean jackets with sleeves constructed out of denim squares, which later were attached together one by one with gold rings. Other fascinating vintage-like details, were the gold Versace letters hanging on a chain, that was attached to the front of a denim Swarovsky studded jacket. It is undeniably true; the retrospective reminiscent from Gianni menswear collections was consciously included in this one. Silhouettes that highlight wider torso on bomber jackets, or elongated blazers with wider shoulders, delivered a masculinity that went in compass with the theme of the collection. On the same timeline of the show, we also found, “Biker guys” who wore leather pieces, black quilted nylon lined vest and motocross studded jackets-on the other side, a striking mix of color was added to the black & neutral scheme used for the first looks that opened the runway; as we call it, “Military men” was flora-flage in different colors, with jackets that have flower-power prints and feature lined necklines with fur in lime green & red. Later, military-double breasted beige coats, leather camel coats with lined trimmed fur on the inside, understated her point across military classic wear.
The “Trendsetter” characters were dispersed in between segments through the entire collection. Just like the camouflage pix-elated print in a dark grey suit, paired with a flower printed shirt-or the look #15, offering an oversize dropped shoulder red coat combined with a bold citronelle green truttle neck sweater. All departure in such different ways that separate from the rest collections we’ve seen for fall winter 2012. Accessories here, play as complements to highlight the inspiration behind the looks; motocross biker men, sported chains on the jeans & necks with a spelling of the word V.e.r.s.a.c.e, the military looks were more aggressive with tag ball chains. The funky ones play with beret hats fully embellished with studs, chains and letters. And for the showstopper guys; crystal studded belts and gloves.
The end of the show was followed by a segment of evening wear, in which Donatella incorporated; Swarovsky bedazzled lapels, button collar shirts; including one in sheer that was patterned with black crystals as forming baroque roses. The ohh and ahh’s were murmured by the audience when a tux blazer fully camouflaged in crystals made a fascinating appearance. The result was beyond words, and the models closed the show in such extraordinary-chic way; two words that usually never come up referring to menswear shows, but in Versace’s case it was an eccentric synonym to describe the luxurious ego of men.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
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