Reading “tribal signs” isn’t an easy job, it seems great idea to leave the reading part to the experts in ancestry. But in the world of fashion, this signs seem like the easiest language to unveil meanings when it comes to trends. Past September 2011, designers not only took inspiration from Africa, but also found something that could connect & relate with their ethnic concept for spring summer 2012. It took us more than one collection to choose wisely between which tribe we would like to be part of. Tough call, there are many options, starting Alexander wang shirt-dresses with geometrical prints that are actually the seating chart of an stadium; those prints later became an emblematic American Indian tribe of strong girls with edge that sneak into his “living on the edge & speed” collection. During the same week, Jack Mccollough & Lazaro Hernandez from Proenza Schouler dazzled us into an abstract journey full of modern tribalism-Geometric lines, raffia, plastic, eel skin, anaconda leather, all these juxtaposed materials created a statement of synthesized luxury that sort played a huge game in the color-blocked graphics and zebra prints that have swapped neutral hues. But in the London call; we found David Koma who’s sci-fi tribal spectrum delivered a well response from the public. Materials like: sheer, iridescent plastics & plexi-glass brought to 3D the tribal prints that were previously laser bonded in leather and white ultralight fabric all over the bodice & sleeves of dresses.
Following our tribal path, we found Olivier Rousteing for Balmain; who delivered a collection inspired by Spanish & Mexican “Torero” culture. Sharp silhouettes, short dresses, cropped jackets, Torero jackets with fringe, high waist trousers and long skirts, all of them have mosaic embroideries in gold studs, that almost looked as if tribal signs invade the pieces in such luxurious way. But the tribal eclecticism does not ends there; Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta also had an attraction for tribal prints, or as Consuelo Castiglioni from Marni, who’s timeless modern women had a funky twisted moment in time with raffia and mosaics in wooden & crystal beats.
Fashion markets & targets work in such interesting ways; maybe all the bold color-block from past seasons brought this essence of modern luxury of tribal, but this time was divided in many statements that included: history, athleticism, nature, art & future. Maybe the Maya calendar for 2012 has something bigger for the world of fashion, and instead of an end, these signs can mean only one thing. Success.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA