Miuccia Prada rolled out a red imperial carpet to welcome the dictatorship of powerful men; such an aristocratic setting that made us think, that Miuccia, once again play a parody of different men characters. History make its comebacks, and so it was the men who walked the Prada fall winter 2012 show, who seemed not to be sucked in time, in fact, he stills alive between our society. By all means we are not making references from the past season collections, which were more about edge, businessman or “cliche” statements. “It is time for a timeless formal wear” said Miuccia, but her diplomacy about power is not serious as it seems; white T-shirts had mock necks that peeked from the white button collar shirts (for those who still think those are turtle necks), pins were actually little western guns or American football helmets placed on the pockets of the coats, button shirts with prints of guns, jacquard patterns on double breasted coats seemed as night silk bathrobes or some shoes that have flower motifs in white and red. Another interesting piece is certainly one of the button shirts that has little faces from: American Indian natives, Vikings, and Roman warriors; as iconic emblem representing, that once in history they were powerful men who had control over their culture. Textiles and materials are not as well what they seemed; what you think was trimmed lamb fur was actually cotton, and we are still guessing if pins were wooden or resin pieces. In the other hand, the Dandy side, took over this season muted color scheme. From the purity of whites to the clash feeling of mixing Bordeaux, mustard yellow, purple, grey, red, brown & olive green.
Tailored silhouettes from coats are precise & sharp, the intricate seams look like they come corseted in the inside-they were also dispersed throughout the entire collection in different options, like: belted, 3-4 button, double breasted and with wider structured necks. High waist buttoned underwear that worked as belts for button shirts and high buttoned vests are timeless options these men from history might have chose to wear back in the days. Although, Miuccia playful daring side was palpable by the comparisons with the “undressed men” well, just to clarify the difference between social classes in those times (analyze Clement Chabernaud and Benjamin Eiden looks, who both wore patterned socks with jacquard motifs as the carpet, crisp white shorts with vest and shirt attire that looks as a uniform to serve this magnates of power).
The performance was embraced by powerful characters, not talking about the models that always blend so well with the concept, talking about Gary Goldman, Adrien Brody, Jamie Bell and Willem Dafoe, strutting down the runway, owning the style and portraying at the same time their value as actors, representing the most iconic characters of the show. That’s why they’re actors, they can fake any personalities at any time; but remember just actors. Therefore, Miuccia synthetically delivery (in all aspects) is just a fake frame of people that acquire power and take it to seriously, when actually they’re not being real human beings.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA