Human evolution takes place every few decades, for Nicola Formichetti’s unfortunate dislike. But since year 2011 -year he was named Creative Director for Mugler, Formichetti has provided a slit in the time-space to provide jumps into the eras and a glimpse into his mind. Nicola Formichetti is known to be a techno savvy expert and an evolution enthusiast. Overseeing the Balenciaga veteran Sebastian Peigne and Romain Kremer, the italian Creative Director presented in his last Mugler FW12 the future gentleman.
His young fresh talent and palpable creativity has brought the French House a new perspective without dissolving the label’s essence. Mugler’s FW12 indulges the audience in its totality even before the runway. With live streams powered by U Stream, Nicola Formichetti teases the industry with previews of his collection and settles his fans answering their questions. The total exposure of the label unifies as a worldwide buzz that provoked hundreds of expectations and dilemmas. Questions emerged wether the collection was going to be executed as impeccably seen through the previews or the media stunt was flunking into catastrophe. The Creative Director mentioned the evolution of the Mugler men for this Fall/Winter 2012 to lie behind the past of the Thierry Mugler House, where archives were the main disclosure for the garments. Between past trends and future thoughts, the final product is a more time-suitable collection without giving up the ulterior features of the brand. Formichetti plays along with time and structure, providing a blinding sensation between two dimensions, jolting Britain’s 1900 with Victorian allegories and ultimate renegades that provides a Mugler men halted in evolution and stuck betwixt archive and future.
The Parisian runway musicalized by Azealia Banks opened with twin brothers Zac and Jordan Stenmark as camera models to prop a futuristic reference rather than to provide an insight to the actual collection. A play on religion was obliviously seen in caped-blazers, long coats and low neck chemises next to multiple leather pieces in off tones. Victorian prints and deconstructed formal attire in sleeveless blazers gave a casualty feel to formal construction.
The season’s trend keeps on glistening with glittery shoes and collection pieces weren’t missed and dual fabric bombers made it into the bowing cut. Between liquid leathers and fitted trousers, Mugler developed a far from past near to future collection that doesn’t need to wait a couple of decades to be worn. The Mugler men will always evolve despite time’s fortuity in the human evolution.
By Alex Márgary
Fashion Editor
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Photos courtesy of Mugler