Kim Jones made his big entrance last year to the world of menswear high fashion. Since his first collection, the attention was draw into the newly designer in charge of such demanding luxury market representing the men behind the new homme collections at Louis Vuitton, and not to be surprised, but once again he delivered a show that no one could disagree on the spectacular strong force that is ridding over everything that faces its way. As new head director of LV menswear line, Kim wanted to give us something timeless but luxurious as the signature background of the label, even the show itself was a magical experience that seemed like a fantastic glance coming out of a giant mirrored sphere. In this case the big reflective globe represented the splendor from Louis Vuitton, and the dapper men coming out of it, looked more as sneak peek of what Kim has for us in the future. Surely this master has a stack of cards up his sleeves.
The collection this time emphasizes living between to different cultures “Paris and Tokyo”, and bonding them together as one, making reference to the connection that Louis Vuitton’s world has had over the past decades between their natal place, Paris, and their collaborations with artists, markets and other influential relations with Tokyo since establishing the label back in 1854. But as this two civilizations fusion into one, Kim involved as well statement details from the most iconic eras of fashion; 70′s & 80′s, which worked in hand to give an everlasting touch of sophistication, but never appointing the rebellious way of expression they represented back in the days. In fact, these magnificent details were blended throughout the collection, like: sharp spikes as piercings on the ears, steel cap toe shoes or belt-buckles with city names in steel; which last time I saw them, were used by Stephen Sprouse on his collections from that time (another artist added to the memorable legacy of the house). But Here under Kim Jones aesthetic, these details were manipulated in such refinement that look far from being stuck in time or style. The traveler men (referring to the philosophy of the house) diffused his cosmopolitan side combining it with the special mixed soundtrack of the show by master Giorgio Moroder, making clear the different eras dispersed among the 42 looks.
As the crowd was inside the 35 acres of the glass greenhouse of Parc André Citroën, delightfully enjoying the wow factor of the show, just as if they were waiting at the most high standard V.I.P airport for all the luxury arrivals to come down from private jets; well, that could be a normal daily basis for the LVMH group, who were all seated front row along head designer of LV women’s line, Marc Jacobs. Good thing though, It seems they already scored their favorite items for travelling this upcoming season, like: the kimono inspired shirts that were paired with precisely executed suits, and are perfect for business travels. Or the LV blankets turned into robe coats, that look cozy and comfortable for the longest airplane travels. There’s more; trench coats with croc leather accents on sleeves and pockets, bomber jackets with fur necklines and full bodice in softened croc leather. Ski Jackets, long coats, hooded fur satin/silk nylon down filled jackets, and beret hats complemented the brilliant collection from this British designer.
Besides featuring a sartorial language with all the structure executed silhouettes or ankle tapered trousers with buttons, Kim also took little details as highlight of the entire collection. Starting with the arrow pins inspired by vintage ones, that were annexed on hats, lapels and scarfs. Another favorite one, is the hand painted feathers with the men’s LV logo. And last but not least, plexi-glass and steel was used for: cap toe, ankle and top part of shoes; a variety of them kick the show, from astrakhan ones, to others in exquisite polished leathers. It is undeniably true that Kim’s latest menswear collection is a synonym of obsession for all the Louis Vuitton fans, aside from all the fantastic transformed maxi and small bags; the collection was a great departure from Paris menswear season, and its thoughtful side of inspiration has put him in a pedestal; same as when the ancestors of his inspiration became leaders in their profession.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
