Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver have always known how to deconstruct, play and understand the most timeless pieces of menswear, by highlighting & conducting their creations to another level, far from what the concept of those pieces was in the past. That’s their constant preposition for Lanvin, but for this Homme autumn winter 2012 collection, both wanted to create something sophisticated but at the same time pushing the boundaries to the extreme. Even though their suits and coats are ageless, the target this upcoming season seems to be straightly directed to the young crowd, maybe a fresh air blew over the old statements, letting Alber and Lucas build a young figure that still plays with a classic modern spin. The collection this time focuses on bringing remarkable timeless pieces and refurbish them from the past to the future, but with a direction that lets the new Lanvin figure to play it his own way. Mix it with the urgency of everyday, and as result you get; high top boxing boots in exquisite skins juxtaposed with the oddly dusty colors and neutral scheme, and last, with the strictly exuberant silhouettes, that far from last fall 2011 inspired by “David Bowie”, this ones are likely more from the trunk of treasures.
The indulging sound of a pianist playing live at the show, continued by the classic sound eclectically mixed with the techno beat of an urban current culture-two sounds that haven’t been fused, but here at the show, they did not clashed, they were a fluid congruent rhythm that went in compass with all the looks coming down the runway; amplifying that the new voice of Lanvin’s character is a fashion rule breaker. With prominent oversize shoulders almost cocoon shaped, and cinched smaller waist; he is the result of thoughtful tailoring process and transformed decadent elegance, wearing old looking suits and coats, capturing a feeling of not being dandy but adopting a cool sense of mix-matching classic with the sport side of hard edge as his personal aesthetic. To complement this intriguing yet fantastic collection, the looks were paired with different accessories, like: luxurious suitcases in leather, which are not the “conventional” ones, if you think they would fit documents and papers, you’re wrong, these are only for the modern guy who uses Ipads. Caps with fur, iridescent sunglasses, chains, rings and other jewelry pieces were the last touch of distinctive dynamism as menswear fashion moves forward to a new decade.
Proportions & volume play opposites here, while coats with blown up shoulders are wider on the torso, the waist got smaller; followed by other coats with more loose and rounded form. Other jackets, cropped blazers and coats, have structure shoulders, so sharp to the point of look strict and architecturally symmetric; a precise accent that contours the strong outline frame of lapels and necklines from each garment. But the new generation wants also a playful twist added to their clothes, that’s why Outerwear is another big game for Alber and Lucas; down parkas bonded into hybrid coats seemed like layering capes on the runway, but actually are reversible coats into one piece. There’s more, another favorite coat, is lined with Mongolian fur in the inside-those pieces project what the now days effortless men, wants and dreams to wear; however, still managing to give us hints from sartorial tradition.
The duo is assuring that menswear evolution shall continue without leaving its routes; although, fashion history can prove it, Alber and Lucas did it as well; for them and to the public. No matter how many times they revamp menswear, their collections continue to be everlasting as their inspiration.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
