Last December 2011, rumors were surrounding that Raf Simon’s was moving to Dior, as for now; things seem to be the same at Jil Sander, let’s just say things are going pretty good- could it be Raf’s last menswear collection for Sander’s? don’t think so, his latest show at Pitti Uomo leave a major secure ambiance, which means Raf is staying at Jil Sander for at least a few more seasons. Only if he doesn’t turn Dior’s opportunity down. Once again the tension between dark calignosity & mystery (which since s/s 2012 its been evolving in Raf’s head) took over the fall winter 2012. A room fully painted in black, a graffiti door and models walking to the beat of Nine Inch Nails song “Closer”, delivered some drama that could be reminiscent scenes of a controversial crime movie, almost as if he wanted transport the audience to a controlled-chaotic moment; sort of “Il Portiere Di Notte” (The Night Porter) meets “American Psycho”- both movies portray that cold prism of emotions. Maybe as the lyrics from the soundtrack said; “Help me get away from myself” represent an attempt to escape from frustration and isolation.
What better example than portraying those non-suspicious cold blooded characters, by having their everyday life translated along their style; just like the businessman, the teacher & the nerdy student-all of them have in comun those timeless modesty dressing elements like: white button collar shirts, clear glasses, tailored suits & ties. Maybe the graffiti on the door with the word “RYONE”, a name given to strong-versatile confidence and instability expression; which could be the perfect nick to all the characters that were inspiration for this collection. However, the dexterous mind of Raf didn’t choose that much difference between the concept, in this case everything departure and stayed in one idea.
Building a concept that strictly includes formal wear, Raf juxtaposed his favoritism with textures by exploring new surfaced materials; not as shiny and plastic as his previous s/s 2012, but more mate and not much iridescent to the exposure of light. Polished-waxed leathers and other hard wool textures worked in hand with the sharp execution of tailoring, that also played with different silhouettes & proportions. Oversized voluminous-wider torso-shaped coats, fitted-cigarette and slouchy trousers are the opposite contradictions that play in this collection. Although, Raf conventional suits with perfect seamed lines, define cuts and structured shoulders are just part of his philosophy aesthetic on menswear and outerwear. Loose sleeves and droop shoulders were as well big statements in the collection, but what caught our attention were the paper & leather lunch bags with the Jil Sander logo, which complemented the ipad cases, clutch’s and agendas with newspapers. Following, the rectangular flap neck line of sweaters layering the neck-torso of coats and two long sleeve cashmere sweaters-both with prints of a whale and a dinosaur; recall childhood memories, but is actually the whale, the dinosaur and the paper bags a conscious message from extinction? well, as one existed, the other one stills in danger, just as the style of the men that Raf embrace and put together for this collection-seems like the world evolution killed some of those statements that are being brought back again for Jil Sander.
One question remains uncertain, and unnoticed. Is it the beginning of a new era at Sander’s? or the end?, difficult to answer; but Raf surrealistic vision always deliver his best, when it comes to sublime messages and forward statements that are taken from a past of a socio-cultural modern era.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
Images courtesy of Jil Sander
