Ricardo Tisci is taking a Minotaur and the iconic american flag as starting point references for Givenchy Homme fall winter 2012, but his endeavor power to project something new to the game seems to have retake past statements from his previous collections. Maybe the message from his womenswear pre-fall collection; making dresses out of printed textiles from antecedent experiments during the last seven years, is a conscious look into revamping what’s already compromise to his own signature. Certainly a great synonym of what fashion is, in this case bringing back the most memorable details that have build his success at Givenchy.
Between the though personalities of men portrayed throughout the collection, we found; pleated gaucho shorts that look like skirts, monochromatic combinations like red-on-red & black on blacks, studded T-shirts with stars, sharp tailoring, crystal studded brogue-boots and off course tights and kilts – extreme signature references that fill in with power the masculine side of the label. Something that Ricardo named as “American Dream”, could be a genius exploration that somehow contemplates the association with aspects from previous collections. Elements like enamel white and black stars represent the glory from both sides of a story, Tisci’s childhood dream with U.S, and his undeniably success at Givenchy, all of those were the references behind the sparkling Swarovski that adorned the neck of white crisp collar shirts, and Tees. In addition, jackets are must haves, they either come in strong hues of black, embellished with crystals & stars, with bonded leather stripes framing the closure zippers, in dark brown hues and in bomber jackets with red & black studs. Textures and textiles were important as the concept; from strong surfaced leathers to denim cotton and hard felted wool’s. Off course let’s not forget the leather mini circles coveting jackets and sweaters. Jumping to the other side of the Minotaur world, the relation of power was delivered by the nose rings which emblem a type of Moroccan jewelry; following, the defined shaped coats and sick tailoring juxtaposed with the oversize silhouettes of Tee’s, shirts and kilts, all of them straight to the point of aptitude & power. Maybe the stars all over (as in a gang), represent this guys are always winners, never failures.
A tent outside Napoleon’s tomb might have represented the new born of an emperor & warrior for the legacy. Whether this was or not the first time this mastermind dreams came true, we know the Minotaur is not anymore a legend on Tisci’s book; instead, it turned out to be not a half, but a complete real men at Givenchy Homme.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
