The Grand Palais in Paris, worked in hand with Dries Van Noten latest obsession with artistic freedom of expression. An scenery that had the seated audience facing towards a mural painted by Dutch artists, Gijs Frieling (author of “Vernacular Painting”) and Job Wouters, the concept took white canvases as starting point to deliver artistic sublime messages in conceptualize typography designs. According with phrases and words such as; “All my poets look” or “Exactly like poets”, Dries made an imperative relation between how the artistic wall was translated into a few of the pieces, representing the freely expression of art, as an expressive way to communicate with clothes. Another message that capture our attention; the mural art was unfinished, so while models were walking, the artists kept paining; therefore, it was a comparison that art and fashion doesn’t have limits, both could take forever to finish and may never be a final piece of art, it will be continued by another one, and so on the same with fashion. Here in Dries dreamland for fall-winter 2012; there is backgrounds of psychedelic forests & paradises that were printed on the textile of; blazers, coats and trousers. And as for trans-passing the words from the wall; a button collar shirt has the word “scattered” which looked as 3D due to the fact of using blue and red as colors for the letters, that might represent his wisely take on different ideas.
The mainstream gentlemen was reflected this time by the sharp attainment on military and double breasted coats, however, Dries mix matched colors and statement prints don’t belie at all with the timeless exposure from velvet trousers-blazers, cable knitted sweaters and high waist pleated-tapered trousers. On the opposite side, folded mock collars on crisp white button shirts added a sense of purity played against the neutral colorful prints and striking details like; double facing beneath lapels that peek while closing the button of coats, or the astrakhan fur on the neckline of double breasted coats. While everyone sort of examined the palpable concept of live art reflected on the pieces, an army and military influence was also glancing on the collection; long military coats and button flaps on the extremely structured shoulders, added a relevant touch of masculinity to the soft scheme of controlled elegance. Textures are as well big statements that frame the collection, as examples we found; beatnik and mohair green oversize sweaters, cobalt blue lurex-felted coats, maxi braided long sleeve sweaters and wrinkled textile on some coats. But the ultimate touch of sophistication in the overall story is given by the shoes, they look as slippers, and come in different surfaced leathers like: suede, croc skin and pony hair; a full deluxe to the rhythm of Dries aesthetic.
As different from his menswear s/s 2012, this collection seems more safe in terms of silhouettes; however, Dries sense of risk, is always alive, approaching new materials and combined techniques that could seem cliché at first view, but still distinguished and spectacular as the envelopes that models carried at the show. Which means, fans and markets will continue wearing the timeless creations from Dries Van Noten.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
