Ennio Capasa step into a more, textural-textile experimental process for Costume National, “Bohemians & Dreamers” as referring to their new menswear fall winter 2012 collection. More like the everyday rush that makes men move on the-fast lane of hazardous edge & live between real life & future. A fusion that includes speed and effortless elegance took control over the new construction of blazers, bomber jackets, blazers & coats, making a striking focal point on their precise execution. As the new idea seems to improve a new forward execution of the conventional pieces, with a transitional twist on textures and silhouettes; the show started with a knitted creamy white long cardigan and blended strong felt coats. Soon after; Capasa gave us pieces that front part were coats and torso were actually the construction of knitted turtle necks-same with a black double breast button leather jacket; front was high neck, back was knitted wool-and following some blazers as well with the back done as cardigans. Bomber jackets delivered an sportswear-urban side to the collection; some of them have sleeves in thermo lightweight textile. But not as fascinating as liquid leather ones, which reversible inside is finished with trim lamb fur.
The feeling of high end multi-functional construction draw attention to the blazers and coats that were worn at the back as rucksacks by using straps on the shoulders. Other interesting details like the blazer that come in leather and blends from the chest down into felted wool, are terrific ways of Costume National’s approach on technological textile production. Knitwear sweaters were used to complement some the looks; which actually peeked and stand out framing the cuffs and chest area when the blazers and jackets were either buttoned, zippered or open-it just slightly dress it up more for the winter.
The same attention that went for the clothes, went as well for the shoes and bags. Steel cap-toe boots give the hard edge, and bags were maxi & small at the same time; some clutches were folded and actually work as totes or shopping bags, certainly all of them play with all the extreme proportions that the entire looks were offering. The color palette was diffused into; light creamy white, onyx black, dark navy, pine green and Bordeaux, and patterns included checks that were part of button shirts, jackets and blazers.
This new aesthetic of playing with a bonding combination of hard and soft textures as well as mixing them together, is an improvement that puts Costume National in a upscale concept this season. Most important is that Ennio seems to be in the right path preserving that powerful theme for the house.
Jhon Jairo Santos
Fashion Director USA
