There was much to desire from Italo Zucchelli’s collection for FW12 Calvin Klein. In contrast with the already seen runways for Pitti Uomo, Calvin Klein failed to comply with many of the viewers expectations. Instead of providing a warm reassuring sensation towards what should be a quite literal Fall/Winter 2012 collection, Zucchelli opted for an interaction between casual attire and effortless elegance.
His risk-taken decision is applaudable, yet, the pieces fall into an evaluation of neglected sportswear. Not everything is lost, as most people say; the Fall/Winter line didn’t disappointed when fine tailored pieces of blazers and trousers came down the runway sporting this season’s most common trend: iridescent splattered fabrics; where Zucchelli oded CK roots on impeccable designing. The heavy cloths used in the construction of the collection takes on the right direction towards what a Fall/Winter line should carry, while the simplicity known for Calvin Klein takes on a slight spin with the usage of new fabrics known to the designer and house.
Inspired in the city of New York, he serves tribute to the new city that holds him now. Recreating the city of concrete and blinding lights, Zucchelli duplicates it’s main features on sweatshirts among the collection. New fabrics to the fashion house like alpacas, cashmeres, mohairs and alligator played the streets of New York and the never dimming lights of the sky-high buildings. Considering never before used cloths by Calvin Klein have been injected into the collection in order to portray the designers current mesmerization, Italo Zucchelli played along the lines of facile casual garments in a bow-able attempt. With oversized coats and alligator skin blazers, New York City has never looked so sharp, ergo, his obsession with his new environment was the collection’s salvation.
It is a quite love/hate exposé, Calvin Klein delivered a mix of feelings between aced pieces and some others that can be easily excused by the new inclusion of fabrics. Calvin Klein is known for its simplicity and fine tailoring, but every other designer is evolving in time, shouldn’t CK too?
By Alex Márgary
Fashion Editor
